Lawn Disease Treatment

A close-up photo of a patchy green lawn suffering from fungal disease.

Is your grass turning brown in spots? Do you see rings or patches that make your lawn look sick? These signs point to lawn diseases that can ruin your green space fast. Brown patch and dollar spot are common problems that hurt many lawns each year.

They can turn a lush yard into a patchy mess in just days.

Fungi cause most lawn diseases. They attack when your grass is weak or when the weather helps them grow. A healthy lawn has up to 1,000 plants in each square foot. Each tiny grass plant needs the right care to stay strong against disease.

This guide will show you how to spot common lawn diseases like powdery mildew and root rot. You’ll learn about fungicides that work and natural fixes like neem oil. We’ll also cover ways to stop these problems before they start with good watering and mowing habits.

Your lawn can be green and healthy again.

Common Types of Lawn Diseases

An uncared for patchy lawn with dry, brittle grass and fungal growth.

Your lawn can get sick just like people do. These grass diseases come in many forms and each one hurts your lawn in its own way.

Brown Patch

Brown patch hits lawns hard during hot, humid weather. This nasty fungus shows up as round spots with purple edges on your grass. You might spot white, cobweb-like growth on these patches in early morning.

The Rhizoctonia fungus loves when days reach above 80°F and nights stay over 65°F. Tall fescue, perennial ryegrass, and bentgrass get hit the worst by this lawn disease.

You can fight brown patch with the right tools. Scotts DiseaseEX Lawn Fungicide works well to kill the fungus. For badly damaged areas, try Scotts EZ Seed to fill in dead spots. Good lawn care helps too.

Cut your grass at the right height and water in the morning so the soil dries before night. This stops the fungus from growing and keeps your lawn looking green and healthy all summer.

Dollar Spot

Dollar spot hits lawns hard in temps between 56°F and 86°F. This lawn disease comes from a fungus called Sclerotinia homoeocarpa. You’ll spot it as small round patches that look like silver dollars on your grass.

White fuzzy stuff called mycelium often grows on these spots in the morning dew. The fungus attacks many types of grass, such as Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass, and Bermudagrass.

You can fight dollar spot with some simple lawn care steps. First, poke holes in your soil to help air flow through. Next, add nitrogen to feed your grass and make it stronger. Cut your grass at the right height, not too short.

Last, water your lawn the right way. Don’t water at night, and don’t let the grass stay wet too long. These steps help stop the fungus before it starts to grow.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew hits lawns in shady spots where air doesn’t move well. This fungus (Blumeria graminis) leaves white fuzzy patches on grass blades that look like someone sprinkled flour on your lawn.

You might spot yellow grass or black dots inside these white areas. The problem gets worse in damp, humid places where grass stays wet too long. Your lawn can’t breathe or make food when covered with this white stuff.

Fix your mildew troubles by picking grass types that fight off this disease. Cut back tree branches to let more sun hit your lawn. Water early in the day so grass dries before night.

Good air flow helps stop this fungus from growing. Next, we’ll look at how to spot signs of sick grass before problems get too big.

Root Rot

Root rot can ruin your lawn fast. Take-All Root Rot (TARR) comes from a fungus called Gaeumannomyces graminis. This nasty lawn disease loves warm soil between 77°F and 86°F. You might spot lime-green or yellow patches across your grass.

Your lawn may have brown spots too. The roots turn dark and short. Grass stolons pull up too easily when this disease strikes.

High moisture and poor drainage make root rot worse. Soil pH over 6.5 creates the perfect home for this fungus. Thick thatch also helps the disease grow. Fight back with fungicides that contain azoxystrobin or myclobutanil.

Good lawn care helps too. Aerate your soil to improve drainage and root health. This lets air reach the root zone and breaks up clay soils that hold too much water.

The health of your lawn starts below the surface. Healthy roots mean healthy grass, so don’t ignore what you can’t see.

Signs of Lawn Disease

Spotting lawn disease early can save you time and money on fixes – watch for odd colors, weird growth, and grass that looks sad or thin, then read on to learn how to bring your yard back to life!

Discolored or Patchy Grass

Spotty, yellow grass often means your lawn has a disease. Brown patches form in hot, humid weather and can spread fast across your yard. These spots may start small but grow into large dead areas if you don’t treat them.

Dollar spot disease makes straw-colored circles when it’s warm and damp outside. You might also see tan spots or leaf spots on grass blades before they turn brown.

Grass that turns yellow then brown in patches is crying for help. Poor drainage makes these problems worse, as wet soil lets fungus grow. In some yards, you’ll notice the grass wilting first, then dying in spots.

This happens a lot with pythium blight, which kills grass quickly in soggy areas. Check your lawn after rain or watering to spot these signs early. Fixing lawn diseases starts with knowing what they look like.

Presence of Fungal Growth

Fungal growth on your lawn often shows up as white, powdery patches. This powdery mildew spreads across grass blades and makes your lawn look sick. You might also spot rings of mushrooms, which signal fairy ring disease in your turf.

These fungi thrive in wet spots with high humidity. They love lawns that stay damp too long after rain or watering.

Fuzzy growth on grass blades points to a lawn fungus problem that needs quick action. The white patches may turn brown or gray as they damage your grass more. Some fungi create circular spots that grow bigger over time.

Your grass might thin out in these areas as the fungus kills the blades. Next, we’ll look at how to treat these lawn diseases with the right products and methods.

Thinning or Wilting Turf

Thinning grass and wilting turf often point to serious lawn problems. Your grass may look weak and droopy even after you water it. This is a clear sign of fungal infection in your lawn.

Dark spots, rings, and marks on grass blades show that something is wrong with the roots. Warm weather and high humidity make these problems worse for your lawn.

Proper lawn care can help fix wilting turf issues. Check if your grass has enough water but not too much. Too much water can cause root rot and other lawn diseases like dollar spot or brown patch.

Good air flow helps grass stay healthy. You might need to use fungicides if the problem is bad. Neem oil works as a natural option for some lawn fungus types. Always treat the whole lawn, not just the sick spots.

Effective Lawn Disease Treatments

Fixing a sick lawn takes quick action and the right tools. You can beat most lawn diseases with the right mix of store-bought sprays and simple home fixes.

Applying Fungicides

Fungicides help stop lawn diseases before they ruin your grass. These products come in two main types that work in different ways to keep your lawn healthy.

Systemic fungicides get absorbed by your grass and protect it from the inside out. They travel through the plant to fight disease.
Contact fungicides stay on the surface of grass blades to create a shield against fungus. They stop new infections but don’t cure existing ones.
Apply fungicides every 7 to 14 days during growing season for best results. This keeps your protection strong when fungi are most active.
Use a sprayer that gives even coverage across your whole lawn. Make sure to follow the product label for how much to mix.
Rotate between fungicides from different FRAC groups to prevent resistance. Fungi can adapt if you use the same product too often.
Treat your lawn early in the morning or evening for best results. This timing helps the product work better and reduces burn risk.
Preventative treatments work best for homes with past fungal problems. Stop disease before it starts rather than trying to fix it later.
Wear gloves, long sleeves, and masks when applying lawn chemicals. Safety matters for both you and your pets.
Avoid watering right after application so the product can do its job. Most fungicides need time to dry on the grass.
Read all label instructions carefully before use. The directions tell you the right amount to use for your specific grass type.

Organic Remedies (Neem Oil, Cornmeal)

Many lawn owners want to fix grass problems without harsh chemicals. Natural options can work well for small spots of lawn fungus and are often safer for pets and kids.

Neem oil stops fungi from growing on your grass. Mix 2 tablespoons with a gallon of water and spray it on sick grass areas once a week.
Cornmeal works as a simple lawn treatment you can find in your kitchen. Spread 20 pounds of cornmeal over 1,000 square feet of lawn to fight fungal growth.
Baking soda mixed with water creates a spray that changes the pH of your soil. This makes it hard for lawn diseases to grow and spread.
Tea tree oil has strong anti-fungal powers that kill lawn disease. Add 1 teaspoon to a gallon of water and apply to problem spots.
Compost tea feeds good microbes that fight bad ones. Brew it by soaking compost in water for three days, then spray on your lawn.
Garlic spray keeps fungi away with its natural sulfur. Blend 10 cloves with water and spray on dollar spot or brown patch areas.
Apple cider vinegar works on powdery mildew and other lawn fungi. Mix one cup with a gallon of water for an easy DIY spray.
Milk spray (one part milk to nine parts water) stops some lawn fungi from growing. Apply it during dry weather for best results.

While these DIY treatments can be effective, proper drainage and aeration will help these remedies work even better for your lawn.

Improving Drainage and Aeration

While organic remedies like neem oil can fight lawn disease, fixing your soil’s drainage and air flow is just as vital. Poor drainage creates wet spots where fungi thrive, so let’s look at ways to help your lawn breathe better.

Core aeration punches small holes in your lawn to let air, water, and nutrients reach the roots. This makes grass grow stronger and fights disease.
A garden fork can break up compacted soil in small areas if you don’t have an aerator machine.
Top dressing with sand helps water flow through clay soils faster after you aerate.
French drains move water away from soggy lawn spots and stop root rot from killing your grass.
Grading your yard with a slight slope lets water run off instead of pooling where your grass grows.
Thatch over half an inch thick blocks water from reaching roots, so use a rake to remove this dead grass layer.
Rain gardens with water-loving plants can catch runoff from your lawn during heavy rainfall.
Soil tests show if your dirt has drainage issues and help you pick the right fix for your grass type.
Sprinkler system checks stop overwatering that leads to lawn disease in both cool season and warm-season grass.
Raised beds with good soil can replace lawn areas that stay wet no matter what you try.
Deep watering less often builds stronger roots that resist disease better than daily light watering.

Preventive Measures for Lawn Diseases

Keeping your lawn free from disease starts with smart care steps. Good watering habits, proper mowing, and removing dead grass can stop problems before they start.

Flesch-Kincaid Level: 5

Proper Irrigation Techniques

Smart watering helps your lawn fight off diseases. Good irrigation keeps grass strong and stops fungus from growing.

Water your lawn deeply but not too often. This makes roots grow deeper and stronger.
Morning is the best time to water grass. Early watering cuts down on disease risk and saves water from the hot sun.
Use a sprinkler test to check for even water coverage. Put small cups around your yard and run your sprinklers to see if all areas get the same amount.
Avoid night watering which can lead to dollar spot and brown patch problems. Wet grass at night is perfect for lawn fungus.
Water only when your grass needs it, not on a fixed schedule. Look for signs like footprints staying on the grass or blades folding.
Adjust your watering based on weather and seasons. Cut back during rainy periods to prevent root rot.
Make sure your lawn gets about 1-1.5 inches of water each week from rain or sprinklers.
Fix sprinkler heads that spray sidewalks or driveways. This saves water and stops weed growth in cracks.
Consider installing a rain sensor to stop automatic watering during rainfall.
Let your grass grow a bit taller in summer to shade the soil and hold moisture longer.

Regular Fertilization and Mowing

Proper lawn care stops diseases before they start. Good mowing and feeding habits keep your grass strong and healthy.

Feed your lawn with 4-6 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet each year to build strong roots.
Spread fertilizer during growth seasons when grass can use nutrients best.
Skip fertilizing during hot, dry periods to avoid stressing your grass.
Cut grass at the right height for your lawn type to help it fight off diseases.
Mow often so you never remove more than one-third of the grass blade at once.
Sharp mower blades make clean cuts that heal faster and resist disease better.
Leave grass clippings on the lawn as a free source of nitrogen.
Mow when grass is dry to stop disease from spreading across wet blades.
Change your mowing pattern each time to prevent soil compaction.
Regular mowing helps your lawn dry faster after rain or watering, which cuts down disease risk.
Test your soil once a year to know exactly what nutrients your lawn needs.
Cool season grasses need more fertilizer in fall and spring, less in summer.

Thatch Removal

Thatch buildup can harm your lawn and lead to disease problems. Too much thatch blocks water and nutrients from reaching grass roots.

Thatch is the layer of dead grass stems and roots that sits between green grass and soil.
A thin thatch layer (less than 1/2 inch) helps lawns by holding moisture and adding cushion.
Thick thatch over 1/2 inch must be removed to keep your lawn healthy.
Use a dethatching rake on small lawns to pull up excess thatch in spring or fall.
Rent a power dethatcher for bigger lawns to save time and effort.
After dethatching, rake up all loose material so it doesn’t smother your grass.
Core aeration helps break down thatch by adding soil microbes that eat thatch.
Regular mowing with a mulching mower cuts grass into tiny bits that break down faster.
Avoid too much nitrogen fertilizer which can speed up thatch buildup.
Sandy soils tend to build thatch faster than clay soils due to fewer microbes.
Kentucky bluegrass and bermudagrass create thatch more quickly than other lawn grasses.
Thatch makes a perfect home for lawn fungus and pests that cause lawn disease.
Proper air flow through grass helps stop powdery mildew and other fungal problems.
Fall is often the best time for thatch removal on cool-season grasses.
Spring works better for warm-season grasses like bermudagrass for thatch control.

Conclusion

Your lawn can stay green and thick with the right care plan. Watch for odd spots or colors, and act fast when you see them. Mix good watering habits with the right grass type to stop most problems before they start.

Simple steps like proper mowing and air flow can keep fungus away without harsh chemicals. A healthy lawn fights off disease on its own, so focus on basic care first, then treat only when needed.